I have played the game twice so far and really enjoy the rules set we are using, Epic Armageddon Handbook 2008. The game is fast paced with more thought on strategies rather then powerful character models. I still have a lot to learn about the game and will keep my progress posted.
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
I have played the game twice so far and really enjoy the rules set we are using, Epic Armageddon Handbook 2008. The game is fast paced with more thought on strategies rather then powerful character models. I still have a lot to learn about the game and will keep my progress posted.
Labels: Epic Orks
Saturday, December 19, 2009
When I was painting my Orks for the combat patrol I messed up one of my models. When I primed the model it was too cold outside and the paint got fuzzy. This meant one of two things. I could have discarded the model or strip the paint off of it. I did not want to discard the model so I decided to strip the paint. I have never had to strip paint off a plastic model before so it was a new experience. I have read many different article one this process and different product that could be used. I decided to go with brake fluid. I was apprehensive at first, brake fluid and plastic models. I thought this was going to end in disaster. So I went to the store and picked up some STP Brake Fluid and submerged the model in it. I let it soak for a few hours then took an old tooth brush and scrubbed the primer away. It worked like a charm, I was sold on this process. After the primer was removed I scrubbed the models with some dish soap to remove the brake fluid. My model was saved so I could paint it for my army.
I then want to see what it would do with some other models I have sitting in a box. Many months ago I picked up an old 40K Ork army that has some models painted. The paint job on the models was not very good and I have about 30 of them. So I dropped one in the brake fluid and let it soak. This one took a lot longer to get the paint off however it worked. I soaked it for a day and then scrubbed it down. Then I let it soak for a few more days and scrubbed it down again. This went on for over a week and the result was worth it. As you can see in the picture I have one of the models that I received painted and the one I stripped. Now I can save even more models from just sitting in a box. So if you have some old plastic models that you want to bring back to the gaming table with fresh paint on them you can. I strongly recommend starting with only one model to ensure that you get the result you want.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Well, combat patrol is coming to a close, we have one week remaining for the league. I had three goals playing in this league. First, learn how to play 40K. Yes, I must admit this was the first time I really played 40K. I did learn the rules and now feel that I can move forward and play larger games. Second, get my 400 point army painted. I did not accomplish this goal. I only painted one unit of Orks, 11 models total. I am a slow painter and I did not keep with my schedule. So one unit painted is a start in the right direction. Third and lastly, Have Fun. I had a blast playing in this league. I got to meet some of the other players and it was just a lot of fun. I want to thank Darren, owner of IOG (Imperial Outpost Games). He went above and beyond to ensure that everyone played and provided the prize support. Darren you ROCK. I also want to thank Anthony, one of my friends who put up with me while learning to play 40K. He was very patient while I learned the rules and helped me along the way. Thank You Anthony. With all this said, take a look at some pictures of what I completed.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Last night was the start of week three for our combat patrol. The rules allowed players to make changes to their lists. So I made a lot of changes to my list. I was losing most of my games because I could not get across the table fast enough. So here is my new list.
Unit of 11 Orcs Boys with a Nob upgrade holding a Power Klaw and Big Shoota upgrade
Unit of 5 Lootas
Unit of 8 Storm Boys with a Nob upgrade holding a Power Klaw
Killa Kan with Grotzooka
This has added the needed speed to my list and I still have the shooting power of the Lootas. It is a better list now I just need to get my games in. I will be at the game shop all day on Friday and I am hoping to get a few games in. I did get some more boys painted.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
The first week of Combat Patrol ended and we started week two on Tuesday night. I had to make some changes to my list, Killa Kans can't take two weapons. This was pointed out by a friend who follows my blog. I asked him why he didn't post a comment on my blog correcting my mistake. He informed me that my blog page did not allow him to post comments. After playing my games and only winning a moral victory, I killed stuff however did not win the game, I checked my blog page and my friend was correct. So toady at work I figured out what was wrong and corrected it. Now you can leave me comments and I would appreciate any feed back from the gaming community at large.
Now that my list is legal, I dropped the two weapons and just went with a Grootzooka, I can move forward with painting. I have completed 3 Ork models using the Army Painter Dipping (Shading) product. I have been dipping models for some time now and have improved on my methods over the years. The Army Painter product appears to me to just be wood stain repackaged with their own label. I do like the different shads that they offer and their product is not as thick as regular wood stain, i.e. Midwax Wood Stain. It worked out well and I am happy with the results. Let me know what you think.
The Ork on the left is shinny because I just sprayed it with dull coat and I took the picture before it dried.
Monday, November 9, 2009
My local friendly game shop is starting a five week combat patrol league this Tuesday. I put together a 400 point list and had a chance to play it a few times. It might not be the strongest list however it will be a fun list to play. One of the scoring features is for painting. We are allowed to start the league with our armies un-painted however we will be scored at the end of the league for painting. So I will be busy painting for the next five weeks. I decided to post my list and will keep it updated with my progress.
Unit of 15 Ork Boys with a Nob upgrade holding a Power Claw.
Unit of 15 Ork Boyz with a Nob upgrade holding a Power Claw.
Unit of 5 Lootas
One Killa Kan
This does mean I will be pushing back my Humvee project and have boxed up my Epic Orks for a later date. Once I get this army painted I will jump back onto my other projects.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
I must admit, I have been procrastinating building my 40K Orks. I was struggling with how I would store my army once I had it built. I normally use rare earth magnets on my bases and keep them stored in a bankers box. I can't do this with my 40K army because the rare earth magnets are too strong and will cause problems on the table when I play. After trolling around on forums and reading other blogs I came up with a solution.
My solution is to use metal washers. Just a quick 1,2,3 of what I did. I used 1 inch washers which measure out to be 25.4 millimeters. The advantage of using the washers over the GW bases is that you are getting the full size of the base. The GW bases are angled on the sides and you are not really using a 25 millimeter base. The washer are great for my Orks so that their feet are not hanging over the sides. I then glued the washers on a piece of plastic card, 0.5 millimeters thick. I did this to cover the hole in the washer. I used a thin plastic card so that I could removed the excess material in a timely fashion. After the glue dried I cut off the excess and filed down the edges. I then lined my banker box with magnets strips and I was done.
I pulled the picture below off an older post so that you have a better understanding of how I store my armies. I take banker boxes and cut the height down. Then I have a great storage box.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Lots of work has been done to the Humvee since my last update. I am sharing three different pictures of the model to show you how I put rivets on. The first picture shows the model with plastic rods sticking out from the side. What I do is simple and fast. I cut the plastic rod that I am using for rivets into 1/2 inch sections. I sand the contact side to ensure that it is flat. Then I put a small amount of glue on the contact side and glue it into place. Then once I have a few dozen in place I cut the excess off. When I cut the excess off I make sure that the flat end of my cutters line up with the model. This leaves a nice flat surface. Then once the excess is cut off, I then file the rivets to the height I want them. I have found this method to be a lot more productive then cutting the rivets to size first and then trying to glue them in place. The excess that I cut off is saved to make more rivets. The second two pictures show a more completed look. I still need to file the rivets down however you can see how they look. I still have a lot of work to do on this model and it has slowed me down on my other projects. I am shooting to have the majority of this project done by the end of the month.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
If you follow blogs and read forums you have might have heard of a place called Michaels. It is a large franchise craft store. I had some free time today and spent about an hour just wondering around looking at random items. I must say that it is more then a craft store, it is a gamers paradise.
Just a short list of things I purchase from Michaels.
Paint: they have a large selection of different paints from 99 cents to 15 dollars. It just depends on what you are looking for. I purchase the 99 cent acrylic paints for terrain and bases. I have also purchased some of their higher end acrylic paints and they work just as good as GW paints.
Paint Brushes: Since I am on the subject of painting, I buy almost all my paint brushes from Michaels. They cost a lot less and work just as well.
Basing Materials: Now they don't sell flocking material however they do have different types of sand, stones and other items to use on my bases. Take a walk through the flower section and just look around and what they have to offer.
Wire: I picked up some small gauge wire I use for a verity of different things. I spent two dollars for a spool of this wire and it will last me a long time.
Magnets: They have a small selection of magnets to use for you bases. They sell sheets of magnets with adhesive on one side. Very nice for magnetizing your bases. They do sell rare earth magnets however I can get them cheaper on line in bulk.
Models: Yes they have a section of regular models and supplies. They get different models in and I have found a few for bits.
Tools: You can find all sorts of tools to aid in your modeling. I found some of the better tools in the beading section.
Wood: If you need some basal or regular wood Michaels has a great selection to choose from. They also have some decorative pieces that work great for displays.
These are just a few of the things I find at Michaels. If you have not been to one of their stores make the trip. Look around for awhile and see what you can find.
Monday, September 21, 2009
It has been a busy week for me and very little time to get anything done on my workbench. I did make some progress on the Humvee. My main goal was to get it far enough along so it could be used on the game table. My Ork army is in various stages of construction so it fits right in. This week I will start work on some of the details making it look proper for an Ork army.
Monday, September 14, 2009
I have been re-introduced to the game of EPIC 40K. I have always been interested in this gaming system however very few people played, so I never invested any money. Over the past few months more and more gamers at IOG (Imperial Outpost Games) have been playing Epic. I downloaded the free rules (Epic Armageddon Handbook 2008) and then bought a small army from Ebay. My army showed on in the mail box on Saturday and I was just amazed how small the Orks are.
This morning I took a stab at painting one of the Ork Boyz. Keep in mind when you look at this picture it is much larger then the actual model. This is a 6mm gaming system and the models are really small. Now looking at my army list I have about 500 more models to paint. Good thing it only takes about 5 minutes to paint one of these Boyz.
Labels: Epic Orks
Monday, September 7, 2009
This week I spent some time working on the Humvee project. I covered the wheel wells for the front and back. Next step will be to install the suspension and the wheels. I am also going to be making the doors. I want to use the same style that are on the Battle Wagon, I just don't want to loot them from my Battle Wagon. That is all for now.
Monday, August 31, 2009
August has proven to be a busy month for me. The sad part is that I have little to show for it. I only painted a few models and they are not finished. I also started work on my 40K Ork army. The past few weeks I have been going through all my Ork models and started the assembly line. While gathering advise from the WAAAGH forum I noticed a post from Artsoldier35. He scratch built a Humvee to use in his army. In his post he stated that another member, Swampy, was the original designer of the model. He provided a link to the original post that had the templetes for others to make their own Humvee. So, the past few nights I have been cutting away and gluing together my own Humvee. This Humvee will add some charcter to my army along with a different version of the truck. I am only at the strating phase of this build and will keep you posted.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
The other day I was listening to a Radio Talk Show and the voice on the radio was talking about a book called, "The Art Of Way". This book was written over two and half thousand years ago by Sun Tzu. I was thinking how the concepts in the book could be adapted to table top war games. That evening when I got home I pulled out my copy and started to scan through it. The first chapter I feel fits perfectly for table top war gaming. It is titled, "Laying Plans" and has five factors one should know and understand to be successful in battle.
The art of war is governed by five factors, all of which need to be taken into account. They are: the Moral Law; Haven; Earth; the Commander; Methods and Discipline.
The Moral Law causes the people to be in complete accord with their ruler, so that they will follow him regardless of their lives, undismayed by any danger.
With table top war gaming we have Moral Law over our troops.
Heaven signifies night and day, cold and heat, times and seasons.
In the book the Heavens are discussed as how the conditions effect a mans ability in battle. The conditions can fatigue a man making victory impossible. The Heavens in table top war gaming are represented by the dice Gods. We are playing a game in which luck can make or break a game. Having a bad dice roll can start taking it toll on a player. The fatigue of bad dice rolls can cause you to get frustrated and make costly mistakes. You need to be able to recover from bad dice rolls or mistakes made during your game.
Earth comprises distance, great and small, danger and security, open ground and narrow passes, the chances of life and death.
This is important to all table top war gamers. Knowing how terrain effects movement and using terrain to your advantage. If you are playing a game in which you set up some of the terrain then set it up for your advantage. Create a narrow passage causing your opponent to go around or funnel his troops through he passage.
The Commander stands for the virtues of wisdom, sincerely, benevolence, courage and strictness.
You are the Commander and it is your responsibility to know the rules of the game. Having a clear understanding of the rules and being able to execute them flawlessly is critical to your success.
By Method and Discipline are to be understood the marshaling of the army in its proper subdivisions, the graduation of rank among the officers, the maintenance of roads by which supplies my reach the army, and the control of military expenditure.
Its important to understand moral testing in table top gaming. In many games a failed moral test can cause the majority of your army to run off the table. Understand how to strength your units moral and force your opponent to take moral tests. The position of your General is important for that additional moral support.
These five factors should be familiar to every general; he who knows them will be victorious, he who knows them not will fail.
Labels: My Life
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Just finished my Tactical Squad for my SPORK army. It was going to be a 10 man squad however one of the models did not make it. When I add an additional Tactical Squad I will make an extra model. This gives me about 585 points for the army. It is enough to play small games and learn the rules. I will be adding additional squads as time goes on.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
It has been over a month since my last post. I placed myself on computer restriction. I was spending more time on the computer rather then working on my models. So I spent the last month finishing some projects and starting some new ones. So I will be getting back on track with posting on a regular basis.
To start I want to share some thoughts about adding style to your gaming table. A friend and I were talking while playing a game. We were using dice to keep track of the wounds for our hero models. We both found this distracting and made the game table look cluttered. I mentioned a post I read on The Waaagh forum. Someone made bases with items on them to keep track of the wounds. So I decided to make some wound counters to keep the game table look better while playing. These were easy to make using extra bits I had laying on my work bench. Each base has a verity of items on it and each item counts as a wound.
This is one of those projects you could get carried away with. I have plans to make other wound counters in the future however for now these will work just fine.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
This week I had the pleasure of introducing 5 new individuals into the hobby of Table Top War Gaming. I was working at the shop and it was a busy day. I had two different groups come in looking for armies to purchase and supplies. Both groups had the same question, "What do I need to get started?" That lead me to write this blog post about basic supplies all gamers need to paint their armies.
1: You will need some plastic cutters. You can use a pair of toe nail clippers, small wire cutters or plastic cutters for modeling.
2: You will want to have a pair for needle noose pliers. You can use the cutting part of the pliers for removing models form the spur and cutting pinning material. You can also use the pliers for holding models when you prime them.
3: X-acto Knives are the most important tool in your collection. I keep a few on hand however you will only need one and replacement blades. You can actually use an X-acto Knife for remove the model pieces form the spur and clean the casting lines.
4: You will want a good collection of files. I have a small set of metal files, a collection of modeling files and some larger metal files. I use the modeling files on plastic models and the metal files on metal models. The larger files are used to beat models into submission.
5: You will need glue, I use Zap-A-Gap. It is like Super Glue however it is thicker and does not run as bad as Super Glue. You will have to try different glues and find the one that works best for your needs.
6: Paint brushes are a must if you are painting models. I have a good collection I keep in a cigar box. I purchase mine from a local craft store. They don't last long so I don't like spending a lot of money on them.
7: You will need to purchase paints. I use the GW brand paints. They work great for me however you can explore different brands. For someone just starting out just purchase a few colors to get you started. Then you will grow your collection as time goes on.
8: A tooth brush is a very handy tool to have. It will come in handy to dust off your models after cleaning the casting lines. Just in general, it is a good tool to have.
9: The last thing you will need is a can of Primer and a can of Matte Finish. For the Primer you can use black or white, however for someone just getting started I recommend black.
These are just some of the basic things you will need to get started into the hobby of table top war games. It is real easy to get carried away with purchasing stuff to assist your modeling and painting. Just keep it simple and once you have all your supplies put them in a shoe box, tool box, or any type of storage devise. Make your supplies portable so you can take your stuff with you.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
This week I took some time to paint a Warhammer Fantasy model. This Black Orc Boss was part of a collection that I recently purchased. It is a great model and was a lot of fun to paint. I did some small conversions to the model and they made a big difference.
Before I tell you about my conversions I wanted to share some thoughts about converting models. I have talked to many gamers over the years and some of them are intimidated by converting models. Not all conversions have to be difficult. Adding different weapons or adding some texture to a model can make a big difference to the end result, a great looking model. If you were thinking about attempting some conversions start with some simple projects and develop your skills. Then you can start doing more advanced conversions.
This model only has two small conversions. First, I re-positioned the arm holding the shield. I did not like the way it was originally positioned. The shield was close to the body and I wanted it to be more open. If your not familiar with this model, the shield and hand are molded together as one piece and you glue it to the arm. I made some cuts to the contact area of the hand and arm and then pinned it into position. After gluing it in place I just added some green stuff to fill the gap. Second, I rapped the great axe with a small gauge wire. This gave the handle some texture and not just a flat surface. These two conversions did not completely change the original model, just gave it a different look.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Well it has been a few weeks since I posted an update on my SPORKS. I finished the Terminators last night. I had some challenges with my new dipping techniques however they turned out fine. I am going to add some additional details after I finish the Tactical Squad. I just want to get the army painted and start playing the game. I was also able to fix the comment section on my blog page so feel free to leave feedback.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Lately I have notice that I am losing interest with White Dwarf. I continue to purchase the magazine to support my local friendly game shop however I feel that I am throwing my money away. The magazine has become more of an advertisement for new products and armies. The pages are filled with a lot of pictures and a small amount of content. I understand that magazines in general are drifting away like newspapers. Most the information that is published in WD has already been posted on forums and blog pages. So by the time WD is available to purchase I have already seen what is printed. The most disappointing issue I have with WD is that noting is fan based. There is no sections for letters to the editor providing tips on modeling or gaming. This is just my opinion and below is my solution.
So why do I purchase magazines anyways. I purchase magazines to find out what is new and ways I can improve. WD lacks the technical information I am hungry for. So I have found myself purchasing military modeling magazines, like Fine Scale Modeler. I am in no way comparing the two magazines, they both provide information to their target audience. I just want more information on the hobby side and feel I have found it with military modeling magazines. Fine Scale Modeler and other magazines like it are full of technical information on painting, modeling and tools of the trade. They are not limited to only one product line so you can really see whats on the market. The best part of military modeling magazines is that they are fan based. You can write a letter and if the content is usable it will be published.
This picture is a "Special Edition" of Fine Scale Modeler which is filled with helpful information. This issue will be on sale until August for $7.95. As gamers and consumers we all have different needs and expectations. This post is just me expressing my needs as a consumer and that is finding a product, like a magazine, that gives me ways to become a better gamer and modeler. WD does not fit the bill any longer and this is disappointing. So if you have the same issues I have with WD and you are looking for ways to improve you modeling skills, take a look at Fine Scale Modeler.
Friday, May 29, 2009
A few weeks back I wrote about Time Management. Setting a goal, keeping with a schedule and staying focused. I was able to complete my 6 Ork Terminator unit and actually finishing two days early. As you can see in the picture they have been given a basic paint job. There are no highlights or shading. I am not one for putting that much effort into my painting. I going to dip this army and that will provide the shading and some highlights. It is going to me a new experience for me dipping these guys. I want to keep them clean and only have the dip run into the low spots on the model. I have a few techniques that I am going to try and if one of them works then these Orks will look great. If not, well they are Orks, they don't have to look that clean.
Since I finished the painting early I am going to take the next few days to get some another projects done. I just received a shipment of Rare Earth Magnets, 750 of the bad boys. I purchased them for the addition to my Orc/Goblin Fantasy army. One of my friends sold my his army however they are not magnetized. So this is going to eat up some time and I will need to make an additional storage box. I just want to get them taken care of before something happens to them, like getting lost in the sea of crap in my hobby room. With this small interruption with my schedule I would say I should have the Ork Terminators dipped and ready for the table in about another week or so.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Imperial Outpost Games
4920 West Thunderbird Rd Suite 121
Glendale AZ 85306
So I took some pictures of my Local Friendly Game Shop. It is a fun shop to hang out at and play games. We have eight gaming tables, 8X4. We also have 4 card tables for a variety of different uses. As you can tell from the pictures we have a large selection of GW products. We also carry a good selection of board games and RPG's. It is a fun shop with a great group of loyal customers that help keep the shop up and running.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Its Sunday evening and I just finished painting the arms for my Spork Terminators. Painting is a lot of fun for me and I find it very relaxing. My challenge with painting is finding the time. After working all day I come home and have my daily chores that need to be done. I spend time with my wife and pets, when I look at the clock the day is done and I start my life all over again the next day. So I really have to find time to paint. I remember a friend of mine wrote on his blog (Running From The Law) about time management. I took some time to re-read his post and put his words into action.
So this is what I did. I set a small goal for the week, paint the arms for the Terminator unit. I then looked at my schedule and figured out that I could spend 30 minutes a day painting with the exception of two days. This gives me 2.5 hours a week to paint. Then I took the time that I scheduled and went to work. While painting I did not work on other models, just my goal. I knew my time was limited and I didn't want to waste that time. So I stayed focused on my goal. I found this part hard to do. I have a lot of models on my work bench and they all need to be painted. So to eliminate my distractions I put my other models away so I could not see them. All I had on my bench were the models I wanted to paint. This actually helped me stay focused on my goal. Now the arms are done and my next goal is to paint 3 of the Terminators by next Sunday.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Well today I cleaned and primed my Terminators. Over the next few weeks I will get them painted and ready for dip. While working on these models I noticed, like I notice on a lot of models, the casting lines were real bad. So that led me to bring up a very important modeling tip. No matter how good you can paint, if you don't prepare your models correctly they will look off. The casting lines will stand out and distract from your paint job.
So how do I prepare my models for paint. I start by using cutter to remove the pieces from the casting frame. Then before assembling the model I will clean each piece. I start by removing the excess material from the casting frame. I use different grit modeling files finishing with a very fine grit file. Then I remove the casting lines with a X-acto blade. I do this by running the blade along the casting line. This works great for flat surfaces and must be done with care. You want to make sure not to get carried away and remove too much material. For the other casting lines it depends on how textured the area is that needs to be cleaned. I might use the X-acto blade, a modeling file or a small metal file.
Once I have cleaned the casting lines I start assembling of the model. I make sure that all the pieces line up correctly and glue them together. If the pieces don't line up then I figure why they are not lining up and correct it. If you have every put together a Games Workshop model you know that some of their models have issues. During the assembly process I will be inspecting the model making sure I have removed all the casting lines and remove as needed. When I put two pieces together I run a modeling file over the seams to help hide them. If the seam is too noticeable I will file it with either additional glue, ZAP A GAP, or green stuff. It is a judgment call on how bad the seam is.
Then I will glue the model to the head of a nail. I do this to aid in the painting process. I can hold onto the nail while painting. I can also place the nail in my custom made drying stand. It is a piece of 2X4 with holes drilled in it. I place the nail in one of the holes while the paint dries. This works great for small models, not so much for large models. If you are not going to completely build the model then make sure to glue the nail in a joint that you would not be painting if the model was built. Also, don't use a lot of glue. You need to be able to remove the nail once the model is painted.
After the model is assembled I will put on some basing material and prime the models. You will notice in the picture below I did not glue the arms on the Terminators. I will be able to paint the model completely without the arms getting in the way. After priming the model I will inspect it again looking for anything that I might have missed like casting lines or seams. This is an important step, I would rather catch problems now before I start painting. I find taking the models outside in the sun light provides the best light to find problems. My desk light is too bright and I sometimes miss things.
I will post my Terminators once I get them painted.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Awhile back I started working on my Space Marine Ork Army. Just recently I finished the 10 man tactical squad. This gives me enough models to play a small game. I still need to work on the models and then get paint on them. This is NOT going to be a WYSIWYG army. This is just going to be a fun army to play with my friends. Every model in the army will be converted and made to look like Space Marines. One day I will have to write a background on how these Orks became Space marines. Until then, enjoy the pictures.