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Friday, September 26, 2008

Dipping Models

As I posted previously I knew that I had to make changes to my dipping process. I went back to the Minwax Polyshade. I feel that this is a better product for dipping models. I also added and additional step. The model below reflects my new dipping process. I prepared the model just like I normally do. Then I dipped the model. Then I sprayed the model with Mineral Spirits. This thinned out the dip and provided better shading and didn't alter the color as much. If you compare this model with the models in my previous posting you can see a big difference. When I finish this cannon crew I will post the completed project.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

British


I know they are not green, however they have green plumes. This is a unit of British Light Infantry for a game my friend, Gary, has created. They are the 52nd Oxfordshire.

Friday, September 19, 2008

Space Ork Terminator

Well, the past few weeks I have been busy on many different projects around the house and my work bench. I purchased the Battle For Black Reach when it came out. I decided that I will learn how to play 40k and build an Ork army. Over the years I have collected a large Ork army for 40K however I have not put them together. I just recently converted a Space Marine Terminator and made it a Space Ork Terminator. I like the way it turned out and have decided to assemble a small army of Space Orks, around 500 points. One of my friends, Neil, called my army SPORKS. I have decided to run with this name for them and will have to convert every model in the army. I think the result will be worth the time converting them.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

How To Paint Space Orks

Before I went on vacation I posted a picture of a recently painted Space Ork. I stated that when I returned I would provided a more detailed tutorial. To keep this process simple I am going to write this as a time line.

5:45 to 6:00 I assembled the model and primed it with White.



6:00 to 7:45 I applied a base coat and gave the model some time to dry. When I apply the base coat I water down the paint. This helps create shading, the pigments in the paint go into the lower parts of the model leaving a lighter color on the raised edge's.



7:45 to 8:15 I spent detailing the model and preparing it for dipping. To prepare the model for dipping means I made sure all my paint lines were straight and all my detailing was done.



8:15 to 8:40 I let the model dry for 15 minutes and then I dipped it. I tried a new dip and color. I used Minwax Wood Finish, Provincial. This product is more of a penetrating stain rather then a surface stain. Also, one of my secrets to dipping is that all my models have a rare earth magnet glued to the bottom of the base. This comes in handy for dipping. The picture above shows a nail holding the model. I secure the nail in my drill and then dip the model in the stain. Then I can remove the model from the stain, place it in a container and turn the drill on, spinning the model and knocking off the excess.



I then allowed the model 48 hours to dry. This new stain took longer to dry then the stain I usually use. Once it dried, I then coated it with Testor's Dull Finish. I have never used Testor's products on my gaming models and it worked very well. It cost more then the other products sold for our hobby however it was worth it.

This was a test model to gauge my time spent painting and the colors I want to use for my army. I am in this model just about 3 hours. I can cut that time down by painting more then one model at a time. I spent more then 30 minutes waiting for the paint to dry. I am also not happy with the new stain I used. I am going back to the Polyshades stain. I use it on my fantasy Orcs and Goblins and I am very happy with the results. The Polyshades are not a penetrating stain and dry much faster and color the models much better. To see the finished model please read the post titled "Space Orks".