I have been working on the front piece for the past week. As you can tell, I removed some the original features and filled the space between the two pieces. I also added some brass rod to make them look like handles. I am going to make some additional changes to this piece then start working on the front grill pieces.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Labels: Double Wide WIP
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
A few weeks back I purchased a book from IOG about modeling tanks. It is an Osprey book called, Modelling Armoured Vehicles. I spent the past few weeks reading it along with military modeling magazines. I have always enjoyed building models and converting them for the games I play. So I decided to create a unique tank for my Spork army. I will be updating my blog documenting my creation.
I have decided to take a Land Raider and make it larger in size. I am calling it the Ork Double Wide. I started by purchasing two Land Raiders so that I have enough parts and pieces to make my tank. My vision for the tank is simple. I just want to make the tank wider then the original model. I will have to convert the top piece and join many of the parts together so that they look like one piece. Now that I have my plan now its time to start creating it.
Then first step was to replace the bottom piece that joins the sides with a new one. I made a cardboard template so I could get my measurements for the new bottom piece. Once I had my template I could then make the new piece using plastic card. Then I put the basic model together so I could see what it would look like. It is not glued together, it is just set in place to give me an ideal of what it will look like. I will to join all the front pieces together and use green stuff to fill the seems. I want the pieces to look like one and not just pieces glued together. When this project is completed I want it to still look like a Space Marine Land Raider. It will just be driven by my Sporks.
Labels: Double Wide WIP
Saturday, December 20, 2008
I just finished my Ork Terminators. They still need to be cleaned up and painted. I like the way they turned out. Each one was converted and each one has a different look. The Spork Orks are coming together. Now I just need to convert a 10 man Tactical Squad and I will be ready to play. I also have a surprise project I am working on.
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Well another month has come and gone and another post on my blog page. I have slowly been working on this project for a few months. This is the first large scale model I have completed, that is not saying much. I used my airbrush gun to paint the base coat and then added my favorite thing to it, an Ork. I like the way it turned out. I still want to touch it up in a few places before I consider done.
P.S. Neil this post is for you.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
It has been over a month since my last post. My life has been going through many changes and today is no different. We, those of us that vote, choose a new president to lead our country. As I await the results I thought I would update my blog page. I stated that I would post pictures of my British Cannon Crew once they were done. Yesterday I finished the cannon and it looks great. I still have a long way to go before the army is completed. I will continue to post pictures as I get things done.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
I just completed my latest conversion and painting project. You can see a noticeable difference using my new dipping technique. I am very pleased with my success. I have started the conversion on the core units for this army. It is going to take some time. I have many projects on my work bench and my time is limited.
Friday, September 26, 2008
As I posted previously I knew that I had to make changes to my dipping process. I went back to the Minwax Polyshade. I feel that this is a better product for dipping models. I also added and additional step. The model below reflects my new dipping process. I prepared the model just like I normally do. Then I dipped the model. Then I sprayed the model with Mineral Spirits. This thinned out the dip and provided better shading and didn't alter the color as much. If you compare this model with the models in my previous posting you can see a big difference. When I finish this cannon crew I will post the completed project.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Friday, September 19, 2008
Well, the past few weeks I have been busy on many different projects around the house and my work bench. I purchased the Battle For Black Reach when it came out. I decided that I will learn how to play 40k and build an Ork army. Over the years I have collected a large Ork army for 40K however I have not put them together. I just recently converted a Space Marine Terminator and made it a Space Ork Terminator. I like the way it turned out and have decided to assemble a small army of Space Orks, around 500 points. One of my friends, Neil, called my army SPORKS. I have decided to run with this name for them and will have to convert every model in the army. I think the result will be worth the time converting them.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Before I went on vacation I posted a picture of a recently painted Space Ork. I stated that when I returned I would provided a more detailed tutorial. To keep this process simple I am going to write this as a time line.
5:45 to 6:00 I assembled the model and primed it with White.
6:00 to 7:45 I applied a base coat and gave the model some time to dry. When I apply the base coat I water down the paint. This helps create shading, the pigments in the paint go into the lower parts of the model leaving a lighter color on the raised edge's.
7:45 to 8:15 I spent detailing the model and preparing it for dipping. To prepare the model for dipping means I made sure all my paint lines were straight and all my detailing was done.
8:15 to 8:40 I let the model dry for 15 minutes and then I dipped it. I tried a new dip and color. I used Minwax Wood Finish, Provincial. This product is more of a penetrating stain rather then a surface stain. Also, one of my secrets to dipping is that all my models have a rare earth magnet glued to the bottom of the base. This comes in handy for dipping. The picture above shows a nail holding the model. I secure the nail in my drill and then dip the model in the stain. Then I can remove the model from the stain, place it in a container and turn the drill on, spinning the model and knocking off the excess.
I then allowed the model 48 hours to dry. This new stain took longer to dry then the stain I usually use. Once it dried, I then coated it with Testor's Dull Finish. I have never used Testor's products on my gaming models and it worked very well. It cost more then the other products sold for our hobby however it was worth it.
This was a test model to gauge my time spent painting and the colors I want to use for my army. I am in this model just about 3 hours. I can cut that time down by painting more then one model at a time. I spent more then 30 minutes waiting for the paint to dry. I am also not happy with the new stain I used. I am going back to the Polyshades stain. I use it on my fantasy Orcs and Goblins and I am very happy with the results. The Polyshades are not a penetrating stain and dry much faster and color the models much better. To see the finished model please read the post titled "Space Orks".
Sunday, August 31, 2008
I just finished my first Space Ork. This was the free model that came with WD344. I was planning on writing an instructional piece on how to dip your models. I just don't have the time today to do this. I am getting ready to go on vacation and my time is limited. I just wanted to post this picture and will write the article later.
Monday, August 18, 2008
One of the joys playing WFB is the large number of models you can collect for an army. I play Orcs and Goblins and purchase many classic models from ebay. One of the problems with this is that most of the models come painted. In order to keep my army looking the same I have to re-paint the models. This can only happen if I can strip the old paint off the models. I have been successful in doing so and thought I would share my stripping process. This process should only be used on METAL MODELS.
Step One: Purchase the models. Today I received two classic Doom Divers.
Step Two: Pull out the can of paint stripper that I purchased from Ace Hardware.
Step Three: Poor some of the paint stripper on the models. I place a piece of material on my work surface so that the paint stripper does not destroy my work surface. Keep in mind this is a paint stripper and will cause skin irritation and melt most plastics.
Step Four: I then fold the material over the model. This will keep the paint stripper from running off the model and work more effectively. This paint stripper is like a gel and will run off the model.
Step Five: After waiting 5 to 10 minutes, I then unwrap the models. I then use a pair of tweezers to remove the model and place it in a bucket of water. The water will naturalize the paint stripper. I then use a cheap, plastic brush to scrub the paint off the model. Even though I have placed the model in the water to naturalize the paint stripper, I still use caution to ensure that the paint stripper does not get on my skin.
Step Six: After the scrubbing the model some paint and glue may still be present. Just repeat the process. If the model has a lot of glue on it you may have to repeat this process a few times. You can use the same piece of material and just poor some new paint stripper on the model.
Once I have completed the stripping and satisfied with the outcome, I can put the models back together and paint them as I see fit. Now I will be adding two classic Doom Divers to my Orc and Goblin Army. I think this puts me at a total of 4 Doom Divers
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Labels: Gaming Stuff